A weekend of dining out in Pittsburgh on someone else’s dime

My in-laws love to eat. Anytime they make the five-plus hour drive to Pittsburgh from Virginia for a weekend visit, my husband plans every meal with them, down to the last brunch before they head back. We make reservations at the city’s fanciest or newest spots, places we always wanted to try but had trouble justifying dropping a huge chunk of change on one feast.

Luckily, my husband’s parents are delighted to foot the bill, meaning there are no limits on what we can order.

Recently, we embarked with them on a veritable food tour at various local restaurants. The stops, ranging from popular to newer establishments, provided opportunities galore to try places and cuisine I’d otherwise forego for cost reasons.

Senti
3473 Butler St., Lawrenceville. sentirestaurant.com

It’s a busy, but not hectic Friday night at this modern Lawrenceville Italian restaurant and wine bar. For years, I’ve driven past this place without stopping in. My motto for eating out has always been to avoid anything I could easily make at home — this especially applies to Italian cuisine, as I, perhaps stupidly, assume that anyone can whip up a decent red sauce (I always make my own) and pasta.

Senti showed me how very wrong I was in this belief. Every dish, from apps to entrees, was a hit. I started with the Bruschetta con Funghi, toasts topped with cold, well-seasoned mushrooms and microgreens. Then came the Insalata di Barbabietola, a burrata dish that edged on refreshing (an odd way to characterize cheese but accurate in this case) with its voluptuous, milky bulb, delicately marinated beets, and sprinkling of pistachios. Rarely have I finished starters that left my appetite whetted without taking up valuable entree space.

So focused was I on eating that I completely forgot to write down the name of the filled pasta special that came as my main dish — I wanna say it was cappelletti? Either way, it proved a savory, indulgent, truffle-infused dream. I would gladly order it again were it a regular menu item.

As for the rest of my party, my husband seemed especially fond of the Carciofi Fritti, a fried artichoke dish that looked inviting even to me, who finds the thistly delicacy overrated.

When the restaurant opened in 2015, a Pittsburgh City Paper review from the time “found the food worthy of its posh surroundings,” a sentiment with which I agree. The decor, with its spotless white walls and table cloths, plush chairs, and vaguely Mid-Century Modern touches, may seem dated (I called it “rich divorced dad contemporary”), but I welcome anything that deviates from the cold, industrial echo chamber every restaurateur is so fond of now. At least here, I’m not shifting uncomfortably on a metal stool and hearing conversations from three tables away.

Balvanera
1660 Smallman St., Strip District. balvanerarestaurants.com

Saturdays are for the Strip District, and this visit included brunch at Balvanera. The Argentinian-inspired restaurant near the Heinz History Center opened in 2023, succeeding a New York City location.

This is not the frittata and fresh fruit kind of brunch to which I’m accustomed. The Arancini de Coliflor, a plate of cauliflower and rice croquettes with quince purée, made for a bright, crispy starter, followed by the Empanadas de Humita, hot, delicious, pleasantly sweet pockets of sweet corn, roasted red pepper, provolone, and aji amarillo.

Since COVID, I have relaxed a bit on my devotion to vegetarianism, meaning I try a little meat here and there if the mood strikes. In this case, I sampled one of my father-in-law’s Boquerones, fresh, unsalted, delectable white anchovies with pan con tomate.

If you’re wondering how Balvanera deals with brunch staples, I was served a solid eggs Benedict with perfectly poached eggs, cooked spinach, and creamy hollandaise, meaning that less adventurous diners will find something here to enjoy.

The Parlor Dim Sum
4401 Butler St., Lawrenceville. theparlordimsum.com

We spend Saturday night at The Parlor Dim Sum, a Lawrenceville spot serving Cantonese cuisine aside from its dumpling namesake. Opened in 2019, the venture from Chef Roger Li, the restaurateur behind Umami, Ki Ramen, and Ki Pollo welcomes diners with an ambiance defined by warm, red neon light and speakeasy vibes.

The most laid-back portion of my culinary journey featured a menu of everything from accessible spring rolls and noodles to chicken feet. My previous experience sampling spicy, jellied chicken feet made me curious about what Parlor had in store; after two rich meals, however, I decided to give my stomach a break with something more familiar.

I ordered the Ma Po Tofu with wheat glutton, doubanjang, and pickled radish. The dish was a welcome comfort on the brutally cold Pittsburgh night — the steamed tofu held up well against the hot broth, and the wheat glutton was a sufficient vegetarian substitute for the minced pork that traditionally comes with ma po.

One thing that stands out about Parlor, compared to our previous stops, is the portions. I had plenty of leftovers, and the table was quick to “ooh” and “ahh” when my father-in-law’s whole branzino came out, its dramatically curled body barely contained by the plate. Even with the more expensive dishes, you’re getting your money’s worth, and then some.

Eleven
1150 Smallman St., Strip District. elevenck.com

After a night of digesting our plentiful Cantonese food, we returned to the Strip District for brunch at Eleven. I felt underdressed as I walked into this giant, muti-floor restaurant that screams “fancy birthday dinner for your grandma.”

The inviting ambiance includes comfy, U-shaped booths, exposed brick, and largesse defined by its sheer size and decorative touches, namely the towering wall of wines looming over the foyer. It’s the kind of place you could imagine holding court over a table of your peers, pouring wine, and laughing over stories you’ve told 100 times, followed by everyone good-naturedly arguing over who gets the check. The bar area below our second-floor table looked stylish and welcoming with its padded cafe table chairs and dark colors.

The brunch didn’t wow me as much as the previous entries had. The small quiche I ordered as a starter came out lukewarm and left me wanting, and the eggs Benedict (yes, I ordered it again — sue me) were best described as fine. Looking back, I wish I had ordered the omelet.

Still, the restaurant left an impression on me, and I plan on visiting again, though it will likely be a night of cocktails and apps in the bar area.