MILAN — The men’s spring 2026 shows here displayed collections filled with relaxed tailoring and a new approach to color — from pastel hues telegraphing a gentle masculinity to pops of vibrant shades for a more energizing injection of optimism.
Hair and makeup followed suit. The overall natural beauty looks were revved up by occasional bold options here and there. Cue the fire-red hair dye and pointy hairstyles curated by Lorenzo Barcella and the Wella Professionals team that popped up at the show Vivienne Westwood staged outside a Milanese café.
Vivienne Westwood men’s spring 2026
Courtesy of Vivienne Westwood
They came second only to the looks seen on the Fiorucci runway, where shaved heads became a canvas for artist Janina Zaïs, who covered them in baby blue to paint cute poodles and ribbons, or flashy yellow to stencil the brand’s logo in a look that recalled a tennis ball. Another model also had his hair, face and torso turned into an artwork depicting Fiorucci’s signature cupids.
Fiorucci spring 2026
Alessandro Lucioni/Courtesy of Fiorucci
For a less invasive statement look, one can look at the Setchu show, where makeup artist Anthony Preel opted for sky blue and emerald green as hues of preference to add a pop of color to models’ lips or spotlight their gaze with graphic shapes around the eyes.
Backstage at the Setchu spring 2026 show in Milan.
Alex Allegra/Courtesy of Setchu
Even at Emporio Armani there was a touch of eccentricity, matching a daring collection that evoked seminal campaigns from the ’90s shot in Morocco. In sync with the exotic vibe, hair was carefully parted in tufts, each gelled, twisted and punctuated by little metal clips doubling as ornaments.
Backstage at Emporio Armani’s men’s spring 2026 show.
Mirella Malaguti/WWD
Hairstylist Louis Ghewy worked on a different concept with designer Luca Magliano, who forwent the runway format in favor of a short movie set on a ferry. Some of his characters had manes coiffed in extra volumes, others ruffled as the wind on the deck had its way with them.
Magliano spring 2026
Courtesy of Magliano
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