If the cost of eating is giving you heartburn, join the crowd. Many people on the UWS have seen rising food prices since the pandemic and worry that tariffs will soon make the situation even worse. We reached out to Fred Plotkin, a veteran food writer and lifetime Upper West Sider, for his thoughts on the matter. He is the author of 10 books, including Recipes from Paradise.
Plotkin recently did some price-checking of his own. He took a walk on Broadway from W. 98 St. to W. 110 St., looking at menus. “It was not pretty,” he reports. “There were very few things on offer that were good for your health, pleasing to the palate and friendly to the purse.”
He’s not thinking about dining at Per Se, either. “I’m talking about rice and beans at a Chino-Latino restaurant that in the past would cost six or seven dollars. Now, with meat, fish or egg, it is $24. Basic Chinese dishes are now in the $20’s, and pasta dishes are in $20’s and $30’s. Regular hamburgers are $18. If you include tax and tip, most people can’t afford to eat that way.”
Plotkin favors cooking at home because “you can control portion size and save a lot of money while doing good things for your health if you read labels and don’t buy foods high in sodium, total sugars and saturated fats.” He anticipates more price problems because of tariffs and climate change.
“Imported staples such as cereal, pasta, canned and frozen vegetables—and products America doesn’t grow such as bananas, chocolate and coffee—are going to become less available due to tariffs and because these foods are often grown in places afflicted by climate change.”
The author warns that “we can’t immediately switch to staples grown in the U.S. They must be planted and cultivated, and it will take time before they become food that can be sold. Many products are seasonal and can only be grown when Nature is ready.” He therefore recommends stocking up now on shelf-stable staples.
Plotkin is quick to say that his concern is not about politics: “This is about people’s health. And that’s being ignored. The more we fight about politics, the less we’re paying attention to the consequences. My concern is that healthful, affordable food is less available now to most people of all political persuasions.”
Rather than feeling defeated by that reality, Plotkin sees the possibility of a critical lifestyle change. “This is a golden opportunity to eat better and save money.”
The cornerstone of the author’s philosophy is keeping a stocked pantry of shelf-stable food products at home. While that may sound a bit retro to UWS restaurant habitués, Plotkin stands his ground. “It is crucial to have a pantry if you’re concerned about money. Keep staples such as cereals, pasta, canned and jarred fish, fruit and vegetables—without added sugars and salt— and learn how to do basic food preparation. I’m not talking about fancy cooking at all, just the essentials. We’ve become too reliant on sending out for food that’s cooked elsewhere.”
To supplement the staples, Plotkin recommends buying fresh, healthy fruit and vegetables at the myriad UWS farmers’ markets. Some government food-assistance coupons can be used in these markets, making locally grown produce accessible to low-income consumers and seniors. “It’s about eating well and at an affordable price for the consumer that’s also good for the farmer.”
Plotkin empathizes with challenges faced by neighborhood eating spots and knows many of their owners. “I’m sorry for restaurants. I genuinely am. It’s a lot of work and represents the livelihoods of their employees. But they have to offer something you can’t get at home, such as the specialties of one of the great cuisines of the world. In that case, go out and fully enjoy the restaurant experience.”
Worried that you’re not a star chef? Says Plotkin reassuringly, “All you need is a cutting board, a knife, a can opener, a pot and a frying pan. You don’t need more than that. Cooking at home is relaxing and you know you are doing something good for yourself and your loved ones.”
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