Which Skin-Care Ingredients Are Safe for Kids?

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Whether we like it or not, skin care has become a hobby for millions of American kids. They’re collecting it, slathering it on one another at parties, and bugging Sephora employees for samples of it. The majority of these products are fine for kids to use, physiologically speaking. But there are some ingredients you may want your daughter to avoid, mostly because prepubescent kids have thinner, drier skin than adults. That, “plus a higher body-surface-area–to–weight ratio means that kids — tweens and school-age in particular — are more likely to develop irritation and dryness and absorb more ingredients through their skin than adults are,” says Sheilagh Maguiness, M.D., a member of the Society for Pediatric Dermatology.

As you mentioned, a California state assemblymember introduced a bill that would make it illegal to sell certain cosmetics with “anti-aging” ingredients to anyone under 18. But I wouldn’t suggest using that proposed legislation to figure out what your kids should avoid (it’s too simplistic). Instead, read on for a detailed list that also explains why to avoid certain ingredients.

Which skin-care ingredients should kids definitely avoid?

If your child has healthy skin (i.e., no pimples or skin conditions that require topical treatment), the main ingredients to avoid are retinol, alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, vitamin C, and products with double-digit concentrations of niacinamide, says board-certified dermatologist Brooke Jeffy, M.D. The reason? These ingredients are known to be potential irritants for adult skin, and on kids’ skin, that’s even more of a concern. “Not until they start going through puberty, when they have some oil production as well, does their skin become more resilient and their skin barrier a little stronger,” Jeffy says.

Since the ingredients above aren’t always listed on labels, you may need to review ingredient lists to avoid them. Retinol and vitamin C come in multiple forms, so skip any ingredients with names that include retin or ascorb. There are lots of AHAs and BHAs, so avoid ingredients with the word acid (other than hyaluronic acid, which is a humectant and fine for kids). Niacinamide is just listed as niacinamide, so that one’s easy.

What are the best dermatologist-approved skin-care products for tweens?

I’ve seen how liberally the under-14 set applies skin care, so if I were you, I wouldn’t buy anything over $20. I recently put a pile of products in front of a 10-year-old, and the first items she reached for — even before the pricey Drunk Elephant drops — were from Bubble. Its entire line is fragrance free, and the Bubble Bounce Back Mist, $11.98, and Bubble Water Slide serum, $15.98, are mild and meet all the derms’ parameters above. CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser, $16.99, may not seem that exciting to you, but it’s regularly name-checked by influencers your daughter probably admires, including Charli D’Amelio. Byoma Hydrating Milky Toner, $15.99, looks great on a vanity and feels refreshing. E.l.f. has good name recognition with tweens, and the e.l.f. Fragrance-Free Holy Hydration! Face Cream, $13, formula feels luxe and comes in a pretty sky-blue jar. And while I can’t in good (green) conscience recommend a single-use product like a sheet mask, I like these cute Pacifica Reusable Undereye Masks, $15, that your daughter can pop on after any moisturizer to lock in the hydrating benefits.

Is fragrance safe for kids?

It depends. Many dermatologists, including Maguiness and Jeffy, say fragrance-free products are the best option for kids. That’s because companies don’t have to disclose the ingredients they use in their fragrance blends (they appear as parfum or fragrance on ingredient lists), so there could be potential allergens or irritants in the mix. Even natural fragrances made from essential oils or botanical extracts could be problematic. “These can lead to irritant or allergic contact dermatitis and even hives,” says Maguiness. If your daughter uses fragranced products and you haven’t noticed any changes in her skin, it’s probably fine for her to keep using them, but you may want to consult her pediatrician. If she has sensitive skin or allergies or gets rashes frequently, it’s best to go the fragrance-free route.

Are there any other types of skin care children should stay away from?

Maguiness also suggests avoiding physical scrubs with crushed shells or seeds and the surfactants sodium laureth/lauryl sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine. “These two in particular can be very harsh and irritating on the skin, stripping the skin barrier and drying it out,” she says.

What about sunscreen?

Regular sunscreen use decreases the risk of developing skin cancer, so it’s a good habit for kids to develop. “I recommend the mineral-based sunscreens zinc oxide and titanium dioxide rather than chemical sunscreens. They pose less risk for potential absorption of ingredients,” says Maguiness. “I recommend avoiding aerosol sunscreens in general to minimize inhalation risks and the risk of uneven application.”

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