The tiny taco shop in Elbridge has one of the best deals in CNY (Dining Out Review)

Elbridge, N.Y. — Each taco at Taqueria Como en Casa starts with a homemade corn tortilla, thicker and more flavorful than your usual flimsy supermarket version, which is then dipped into what appeared to be the brick-red fat from a pot of simmering birria and then warmed on a flat-top griddle until spotty charred marks appear.

They’re then filled with pork, chicken, beef and depending on the day, potentially pork intestine or beef tongue, topped with chopped cilantro and onion, and served alongside lime, cucumber, consommé for the birria tacos and two types of salsa.

The presence of classic street-style tacos in CNY’s veritable sea of Tex-Mex might be enough to make the tacos at Taqueria Como en Casa stand out. But it’s the fact that you can get these tacos for around the same price as a plain taco at Taco Bell makes these exceptional.

Each Thursday, the little Guatemalan taqueria, which opened last year in the Elbridge Plaza, serves platters of 10 tacos for just $20.

Protein options the Thursday we visited included chicken (normally $2), carne asada (steak, normally $3.50), chorizo (normally $3.50), al pastor (pork, normally $3.50) and beef birria (normally $3.50). Lengua (tongue) — sounds weird, tastes great — is listed on the menu, but wasn’t available during our visit.

The tacos are presented simply: meat, onion, cilantro, the latter two of which you’ll be asked if you want, and barring any dietary or genetic restrictions, you’ll say yes. The creamy jalapeño salsa is bright with garlic and fresh cilantro notes. It was a natural pairing for the white meat chicken and al pastor. The red salsa is bright with the taste of pureed fresh tomato hitting first before giving way to a moderate heat that takes a few seconds to warm up.

The birria is served as a quesabirria taco, the name referring to the melted cheese inside the bronzed tortillas that no doubt played a large part in the quesabirria taco’s rise from a Mexican regional specialty into a national phenomenon. While the tortillas for all the tacos were cooked on the griddle, the birria tacos got a second stint on the griddle after assembly, giving the tortillas a bit more char and crunch and an opportunity for any cheese that escaped its tortilla confines to crisp up into delectable salty bits that provided a textural contrast to the tender, shredded beef.

The crumbled chorizo was smoky, lightly spicy and made with actual ground pork — a far cry from the textureless paste of cheap chorizos found in plastic tubes at your local supermarket.

The carne asada was flavorful, the steak lightened by a hit of citrus. The al pastor was leaner than other versions I’ve had of the dish, which is typically made with pork shoulder and wasn’t quite as tender as the chicken.

On their own, the meats are mild, with the salsas tasked with providing the desired spice. The same can’t be said for the pepinos locos ($12), one of the fruit options from the antojitos (Mexican street snacks) side of the menu that’s everything but unadorned.

Segments of peeled cucumber are hollowed out, stuffed with diced watermelon, pineapple and mango and finished with a hearty drizzle of chamoy, a shake of Tajin and chili-lime Fuego Takis poking out of each cucumber.

Chamoy, a sweet-and-sour sauce made with dried fruit, chilies and spices, and Tajin, a spice mix of chili, lime and salt, are common toppings for tropical fruits like mango and watermelon. But they work on cucumbers too, even though the crunchy, cool fruits (yes, cucumbers are technically fruits) are the polar opposite of the mouth-puckering condiments. Together, they tasted like a hot summer’s day, even in the dead of winter.

A large plastic cup of horchata ($4), a creamy rice-based drink with a bit more tan color and cinnamon than other versions I’ve had, balanced the spice and acid of both the tacos and chili-spiked fruit.

Taqueria Como en Casa is a simple place. The menu is short and built around its namesake dish, though it does expand with weekend specials, such as menudo, caldo de mariscos, pepian, tamales and other Mexican and Guatemalan dishes, typically posted on the restaurant’s Facebook page.

The decor is fairly plain, save for a green turf wall panel and neon sign by the front register, next to a display of hand-knit floral keychains for sale.

While several customers stopped in to pick up takeout orders, we were the only dine-in customers while we were there. With minimal exterior signage and a location a bit set back from the main road, one could easily drive by and not realize the treats — and bargains — they’re missing inside.

Mounted on the wall above our table was a sign with the words “un taco al dia es la llave de la alegria,” which translates to “A taco a day is the key to joy.” Tacos may not keep the doctor away, or cure all of life’s ills, but it can’t hurt to try.

The Details

The Restaurant: Taqueria Como en Casa, 243 E. Main St., Unit #5, Elbridge.

Takeout/Delivery? Yes, takeout is available, including for Thursday taco special. Call (315) 632-5129

Reservations? Not needed.

Credit cards? Yes, with no added surcharge.

Noise level: Quiet during our visit. A TV in the dining room was playing music.

Accessibility: Ample room to move in the dining room, Designated accessible parking is available in the lot.

Parking: Shared off-street parking lot.

Special diets? No meat-free entree choices. Menu states to inform staff about any food allergies.

Children’s menu? Yes, options include birria or chicken quesadilla with French fries and fried chicken with French fries.

Hours: Sunday to Friday, from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday, from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Closed Tuesday.

Cost: Dinner for two with shared platter of tacos, shared pepinos locos, non-alcoholic drinks, tax and 20% tip was $44.61.

Jacob Pucci is a food and restaurant critic for syracuse.com and The Post-Standard. You can reach him at [email protected] and follow him on Facebook, Instagram or BlueSky. Sign up for our free weekly Where Syracuse Eats newsletter here.