Men’s fashion week highlights: From Jonathan Anderson’s debut at Dior to Qasimi’s deeply personal show

From relaxed elegance at Prada to Indian influences at Louis Vuitton and the UAE’s own Qasimi honouring its founder’s legacy with thoughtful, culturally rooted design, we round up the best from the recent men’s runway shows in Paris and Milan.

Prada

At the Deposito at Fondazione Prada in Milan, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons unveiled a collection that marked a clear shift in attitude. Titled A Change of Tone, the show dismantled traditional power dressing, offering a playful, non-conformist take on men’s style. The mood was direct yet versatile, celebrating freedom through unexpected pairings.

Silhouettes were relaxed, with smart tailoring layered over casual sportswear – think coats over tracksuits or suits eased with sporty zip-ups. Simple cotton trousers paired with crisp white shirts added to the understated charm. Juxtaposed fabrics and textures created depth, while accessories such as pointed rattan hats and subtle jewellery provided finishing touches.

Colour was key – primary tones clashed gently with neutrals, gradually softening into pastels paired with navy, brown and grey. Stripes hinted at nautical nostalgia, while utility elements reinforced practicality.

Footwear and bags kept things grounded – flip-flops, moccasins, canvas lace-ups, gym bags and backpacks underscored the collection’s approachable, laid-back elegance, inviting men to rethink modern dressing.

Giorgio Armani

For the first time in his remarkable career, Giorgio Armani, 90, was absent from his Milan Fashion Week show, recuperating at home from an undisclosed illness. Yet, his presence was felt in a collection that embodied the relaxed sophistication and timeless elegance synonymous with his house.

The runway featured pairs of models (male and female), styled in harmonised looks that subtly blurred gender lines. Soft tailoring, layered knits and airy fabrics created silhouettes that flowed gently, offering lightness and ease. Wide-leg trousers, supple leather, silks and fine cottons underscored the collection’s fluid charm.

Influences of city and seaside, East and West, combined seamlessly. Subtle checks, abstract sketches and watercolour prints added depth. The palette balanced soft greys with purples and blues, cream with gold and warm desert tones with aquamarine.

Suits worn with flip-flops reflected effortless transitions between business and leisure.

Accessories echoed the laid-back charm – knotted belts, raffia caps and large fabric bags. Closing the show, Leo Dell’Orco, Armani’s trusted head of menswear, paid tribute to a designer whose vision continues to define understated luxury.

Qasimi

Marking its 10th anniversary, Qasimi debuted its spring/summer 2026 collection in Milan with a deeply reflective presentation. The London-based label, founded by the late Sheikh Khalid Al Qasimi and now helmed by his twin sister Sheikha Hoor Al Qasimi, continues to embody a rich dialogue between its UAE heritage and its base in the UK. The collection explored this dual identity, offering garments that speak to cross-cultural exchange and shared histories.

Staying true to the brand’s core, the collection was defined by clean lines, oversized silhouettes and a palette of neutral and sandy tones. Long tops and jackets layered over wide trousers created fluid, effortless shapes. Utility-inspired details, including abundant pockets, pleats and zips offered functionality and versatility. Memory nylon – a fabric that records creases that gradually fade – became a striking symbol of lived experience, once again nodding to the very personal influences on this collection.

Blazers with zip detailing and multi-functional pieces echoed the balance between smart and casual dressing, while a collaboration with Lebanese artist Dala Nasser added further depth, with raw edges, loose threads and doodle-like embroidery evoking traces of place and memory. The collection felt like a wearable reflection of legacy, adaptability and modern Arab identity.

Dior

Jonathan Anderson’s highly anticipated debut for Dior marked a bold new chapter, as he reinterpreted the house’s codes with imaginative flair for the men’s spring/summer 2026 collection.

Anderson approached the collection as a modern fairytale – romantic yet informed. Capes, tailored waistcoats and Bar jackets with nipped-in waists paid homage to Dior’s storied past, while denim shorts, relaxed socks and sandals added a casual, youthful twist. Cable knits and long coats echoed the house’s womenswear signatures, blending tradition with fresh energy.

There was a sense of dressing up to become a character, with ties, bow ties and 18th and 19th-century-inspired waistcoats anchoring the narrative. Anderson’s own design language overlapped subtly with Dior’s, creating a dialogue between aristocratic elegance and modern spontaneity.

The colour palette spanned soft neutrals to vibrant greens, pinks and blues. Thoughtful details – rococo-inspired Diorette charms, delicate rose embroideries and playful tailoring – ensured Monsieur Dior’s romantic spirit remained central, as Anderson recoded the house’s language with informed creativity.

Louis Vuitton

Presented at Paris’s Centre Pompidou on a striking show space by Bijoy Jain of Studio Mumbai – a life-size tribute to the ancient Indian board game Snakes and Ladders – Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2026 menswear was a tribute to modern Indian sartorialism, explored through the Louis Vuitton lens.

With an offering that felt more grown-up than recent seasons, Pharrell Williams delivered smarter dressing without losing the edgy twist that has defined his tenure so far. The collection blended rich material, colours, and craftsmanship rooted in Indian culture. Tailoring took centre stage, with L.V.M monograms adorning blazers that hinted at a more serious, elevated take on suiting. The palette – navy, brown, burgundy, khaki, pink – drew inspiration from Indian landscapes and vibrant sunsets.

Denim, cable knits, pyjama stripes, and polo shirts combined preppy and street style. Shell jackets, fleece blousons, and hiking boots nod to Indian mountaineering culture, elevated with heritage patterns, hand-embroidered stones, micro-beads, and lace. The Darjeeling Limited motif, which was created by Louis Vuitton for the film of the same name in 2007, was included in a collection for the first time, presented on garments and bags, merging travel, cinema, and craftsmanship.