Editorial: When it comes to cosmetics, let kids be kids

My 11-year-old daughter is not on social media. She doesn’t even own a smartphone, and she has limits on screen time. But somehow, she still knows about the latest viral cosmetic trends on TikTok. Conversations about facial skin-care routines are common among her friends, as are weekend jaunts to stores to try products packaged in cute, candy-colored containers.

The use of skin-care products by children, mostly girls, has skyrocketed in the past 2 years. Children aged 6–17 in the US spent $4.7 billion on skin care and makeup in 2023, according to technology consulting firm Aytm. Parents around the world are grappling with this skin-care fad, dubbed the “Sephora kids” phenomenon.

Tweens’ prefrontal cortex, the brain’s decision-making center, is hardly developed. These kids lack impulse control and react emotionally. And they want to be accepted by their peers. The cosmetic industry, fueled by social media influencers, seems to be targeting these weaknesses.

Expensive, multi-ingredient skin-care routines for children are unnecessary, and they can harm physical and mental health. Those making money off the skin-care trend among children need to undo any harm.

Of concern are antiaging products with ingredients that perform some combination of exfoliating dead skin cells, boosting collagen production, smoothing wrinkles, and reducing pigmentation. The list includes derivatives of vitamin A, such as retinol and retinoids; α hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic acid and citric acid; and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

These products are marketed to young adults for “prejuvenation”: preemptive treatment to delay signs of aging. Prejuvenation might make sense for 20-somethings. But tweens are at the peak of their lives for flawless skin. And harsh ingredients can be hazardous for children’s sensitive skin.

Northwestern University researchers published a peer-reviewed study in the journal Pediatrics in early June in which they analyzed teen skin-care routines posted on TikTok (DOI: 10.1542/peds.2024-070309). They found that girls aged 7–18 posting content on TikTok use an average of six products on their faces. The regimens of the 25 most-viewed videos contained up to 21 potentially irritating active ingredients, and most had at least one allergen, such as fragrance and surfactants, all of which pose a high risk of allergy, skin irritation, and accentuated sun damage.

Dermatologists and pediatricians agree that children should avoid the use of harsh skin-care ingredients, like retinol, unless they are prescribed. Cosmetic products and ingredients are regulated but do not require testing and premarket approval in the European Union and the US. So while doctors consider antiaging ingredients safe for adult cosmetics, there is no direct evidence that they are safe for kids, and we don’t know what they can do to skin in the long term when use starts at age 7.

We are raising a generation of skin-care guinea pigs. And a deeper, intangible issue is the damaging mental health implications of pursuing unrealistic standards of beauty and perfection.

California State Assembly member Alex Lee introduced a bill in February to ban the sale of antiaging products to children under the age of 18. Retailers would have to verify age just as they do for tobacco and alcohol sales.

Opponents from California dermatologist and beauty industry trade groups argue that the ban would be tough to implement. They blame social media and say it should be regulated instead.

I’m sure people also blame parents. But we parents are competing against a multibillion-dollar beauty industry and social media machines. Being a parent is hard enough.

Cosmetic firms are responsible for marketing safe, properly labeled products. Clearly marking products that are not appropriate for tweens and teens would promote safety and build trust.

Another smart move would be formulating and branding products for different generations and age groups. For example, BASF, which sells ingredients to personal care giants, offers formulas tailored for four generations, from Gen Alpha to Gen X.

Keeping kids from using harsh, potentially harmful skin-care products isn’t just a matter of regulation—it’s a matter of ethics. And all adults should step up and do their part.

This editorial is the result of collective deliberation in C&EN. For this week’s editorial, the lead contributor is Prachi Patel.

Views expressed are not necessarily those of ACS.