There’s a common Persian saying: Nan o piaz, pinake baz — “Bread and onion, open forehead”— which means, even if you have little to offer, a warm, welcoming spirit is what matters most.
“The first thing the Safis did when they arrived was cook for us,” Gouttierre said. “It was their way of saying ‘thank you.’”
To help introduce the Safis to American cuisine, the Gouttierres took them to a local steakhouse.
“We encouraged them to try medium rare,” Gouttierre said. “Only Hasina was brave enough. The rest wanted it well done.”
In Afghan tradition, meat is always fully cooked and typically halal — slaughtered according to Islamic principles, with a prayer of gratitude. Lamb is especially revered and reserved for honored guests.
“Marylu and I never really fell for lamb,” Gouttierre said, “but we came to appreciate its cultural significance.”
Ashak and mantu
Other Afghan favorites include ashak, steamed dumplings filled with leeks and topped with garlicky yogurt, tomato sauce and dried mint.
Its cousin, mantu, is stuffed with ground beef and onions. Both are “craving foods,” made in large batches and often in response to a single group message: “Let’s make ashak tonight.”
“It’s like Americans asking ‘dog or cat person,’” Hasina said. “Afghans ask, ‘Ashak or mantu?’ We argue about it — lovingly — for hours.”
Then there’s bolani, the fried flatbread filled with seasoned potatoes or leeks, ground beef or pumpkin, and served with spicy chutney.
“These foods aren’t just eaten — they’re made together, with laughter, gossip and community,” Hasina said.
Omaha has an increasing number of places where you can find these foods — and many others. Two Afghan restaurants and at least two grocery stores offer everything from rosewater sweets and cardamom tea to fresh naan, saffron and imported spices.
At Afghan Mahal Supermarket & Restaurant near 120th Street and West Center Road, patrons are welcomed with a cup of strong green tea — popular in southern Afghanistan and often sweetened. The store also sells traditional clothing imported from Afghanistan.
The supermarket was purchased in 2019 by two Afghan immigrants, Safar Khan Shinwari and Aman Khan, who didn’t know each other in Afghanistan despite being from the same village.
Shinwari came to the U.S. in 2015 through a Special Immigrant Visa after working with the U.S. government. Educated and fluent in English, he took a factory job and drove for Uber. In 2021, after the Taliban takeover, he returned to Afghanistan to bring his wife and nine children — five sons and four daughters — to safety.
Aman Khan, Shinwari’s business partner, worked in Afghan special forces with American troops. He, his brothers and an uncle were evacuated to the U.S. on Aug. 15, 2021 — the day the Taliban regained control.
One dish they made together was qabuli palaw — Afghanistan’s national dish (which sometimes is spelled kabuli pulao). It’s a fragrant rice pilaf with carrots, raisins and nuts, often served with lamb or beef.
“Alhamdulillah,” said Aman, saying an Arabic phrase that translates to “praise be to God.” “This store feeds my family and helps other Afghan families stay connected to their roots.”
Safar Khan’s son, Lughman, sees Afghan Mahal Supermarket as far more than a place to shop for groceries and clothes. “This is more than a business. It’s a bridge to our past — and a place to build a new community.”
Serving tradition and connection
Shaheen’s restaurant is another Afghan-run business in Omaha, started by a family with roots in the U.S. stretching back 40 years.
The restaurant blends modern and traditional Afghan décor, with old photos on the walls and four-generation family portraits — featuring only the men — at the reception area.
But the heart of the restaurant is the kitchen, where the eldest daughter does the cooking. She learned everything from her mother and grandmother. In Afghanistan, recipes are rarely written down, but rather passed down by word of mouth.
Shaheen’s opened in 2019 in a strip mall near 119th and Pacific streets. It’s temporarily closed, but it will reopen at some point for takeout only. Last year, the family opened a second branch at 62nd and Maple streets. The restaurant is founded and owned by Shahen Shah.
Shah’s fifth son is Omid Shah, a UNO sophomore and a new real estate agent who has watched, and helped, as his father built a family restaurant.
“My dad always dreamed of owning one,” Omid said. “He’s a huge fan of cooking and used to make us five-star meals at home … he’s an incredible cook. More than that, he wanted to create a family business that could support all of us and bring us together.”
Recently, Omid watched as a man in traditional Afghan clothing biked past the restaurant. He looked up, slowing his bike. He saw the photos of Afghan food on the windows. And he smiled before biking away.
“It’s those moments that remind us why this place matters,” Omid said.
Inside the restaurant, along with tables and booths, guests can find traditional Afghan floor seating — a cultural hallmark where diners sit on mattresses instead of chairs — and a small prayer space. “We want people to feel like they’re eating in Afghanistan,” Omid said.
Half of the restaurant’s American-born customers are already familiar with Afghan cuisine, he said. Many served in the U.S. military and deployed to Afghanistan. Other diners remember an Afghan restaurant that operated in Omaha in the late 20th century before that restaurant’s owner returned to Afghanistan.
Shaheen’s most popular dishes? “Definitely qabuli palaw and kebabs,” Omid said.
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