The Netflix series The Royals might not be up there with its plotline, but it is definitely grabbing eyeballs for its sartorial palette. The wardrobe in the show is perhaps one of the most fashionable on screen in current times. Bhumi Pednekar’s Sophia Shekhar and Ishaan Khatter’s Aviraj Singh, along with the side characters in the show, have enviable wardrobes that cover every end of the style spectrum — from snazzy and oomphy to opulent and regal. Talking about regal, nothing beats the lookbook showcased in the fashion show sequence that forms the climax of the series, put together by Indian fashion veterans Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla.
Known for their opulent aesthetics and extensive work with Indian crafts, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla have created a royal dream for the series. We caught up with the duo for an exclusive chat on the collection they created for The Royals, how life has changed post-pandemic, and what’s keeping them busy. Excerpts…
Your fashion show within the Netflix series The Royals is not only the high point of the series but is also much talked about! How did the association with the series happen?
We have followed Rangita Pritish Nandy’s work with keen interest over the years. From her movie with Rinke Khanna and Jhankar beats to Four More Shots Please!, we enjoyed. We are drawn to people who walk their own path, who are bold, brilliant and never run-of-the-mill. The offbeat always attracts us.
She told us the climax of the series featured a fashion show only Abu and I could do justice to. And since we already had the archival clothes, we were game. Aastha Sharma, the stylist, is a fan of our designs and we were confident she would style the looks in the way we wanted. Abu and I love working with spirited individuals so we decided we must do this.
Did you create any other looks for the series or just for this fashion show sequence?
This finale sequence was all we had time for. Our fashion labels, new store at Jio Plaza, and expansion mean we are extremely busy and so this finale was our only work on the show. We created fabulous looks for Zeenat (Aman), Bhumi, Ishaan, Sakshi (Tanwar), Dino Morea — whose ajrak ensemble is a magical masterpiece — Chunky (Panday) — who wore a vintage sherwani — and the head cook.
Did you have a free hand in deciding the looks or was there a brief you had to follow?
We were given carte blanche when it came to deciding the collection and looks in The Royals. It is one of the things we insist upon before working on a show. Our clothes must be our call and we don’t compromise on that.
How was the experience of creating a fashion show for a fiction series, as opposed to putting together a real fashion show?
It is rather different. A fashion show in real does not allow for the luxury of retakes, editing and post-production. It is a live production and consists of a minimum of 20 minutes worth of fashion. A fashion show in a fiction series is merely a few minutes. It is shot and edited several times to ensure one captures the looks and models, or in this case actors, to perfection. A real-life fashion show has a different sense of occasion and excitement to it. A fictional show is a more controlled and planned affair.
The pieces seen in this sequence are showcased as being heritage… are they actually heritage pieces? Or did you have to create them for the show?
Ninety per cent of the garments are heritage Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla. We dug deep into our archives to select unique pieces from our vintage collections from 38 to 30 years ago. Each outfit is a stunning example of the myriad techniques we have mastered through the decades. When we say it’s vintage we mean it is truly authentic vintage AJSK.
Tell us about working with Bhumi and Ishaan, and please decode their looks for our readers…
Bhumi is an old favourite. We have worked with her several times over the years. She is delightful and completely committed to giving her all. She was obsessed with the mirror lehnga, mesmerised by its craftsmanship, and worked the look to absolute perfection.
The mirror lehnga is a remarkable piece. It is based on a piece we created five years ago for our archives, which was never released as part of a collection. It is both traditional but also has a deliciously sensuous and sexy modern twist to the silhouette, which gives it current appeal. It is an exceptionally heavy piece and the real mirror embroidery weighs a ton. Bhumi did an incredible job carrying it like it was easy. She exuded grace and majesty in it.
Ishaan is a revelation. We have admired his acting chops in his earlier movies and shows. Working with him was absolute magic. He possesses incredible presence and is an absolute powerhouse when it comes to being a fashion icon. The organza kurta was a heavenly ethereal look that oozed dreamy desire. He looked like a seductive Errol Flynn in it. Heroic and positively dashing.
The zardozi and mirror angarkha was a regal masterpiece that belongs in a king’s wardrobe. Featuring a dazzling and detailed display of hand-craftsmanship, it is an eternal classic destined to be relevant for decades. Its tailored silhouette was magnificent on Ishaan’s muscular body. He is a clotheshorse, made to wear the most fabulous fashion. His entry on horseback on the show was simply spectacular.
Zeenat Aman was a fashion icon of the 70s and 80s, and is quite an enigma even today. How was it working with her? Please tell us about the regal look you created for her….
Zeenat Aman is utterly and absolutely iconic. The quintessential sex bomb of the 70s and 80s, she is beloved to us personally and to millions of Indians. In her 70s, she is still the standard of cool. Her personal style is minimalist and so we were super excited to dress her in an OTT, royal maximalist look. At first she was hesitant because of the weight and complex embroidery of the garments but with a little encouragement her courage and sense of adventure took centrestage.
We dressed her in a red zardozi lehnga that can only be described as a bridal extravaganza. And boy did she ace the look! She looked absolutely magnificent and utterly at home in its splendour. Bravo!
The clothes you’ve showcased are heavy on Indian craftsmanship, like your collections have always been. Tell us what crafts and techniques you’ve used…
Absolutely! Our work is defined and distinguished by its focus on hand-craftsmanship. We have spent the last four decades reinventing techniques and embroideries as well as fabrics and block prints and textiles to the highest possible standard. The fashion in The Royals is super special because it afforded us the opportunity to show all our techniques and textiles.
Royalty has always had supremely eclectic taste, mixing and matching fabrics and embroideries to create extravagant style. So do our clothes in the show. We have every form of zardozi, resham, mirror and sequins. We have also used all our special textiles, from bandhani to ajrak. It is a lavish display of our expertise and history of craftsmanship as a design house. It is a matter of great joy and pride for us to have our work featured so extensively in The Royals.
You had created part of the wardrobe for Devdas, but haven’t worked much with Bollywood after that… any particular reason?
We did the entire wardrobe for Madhuri Dixit, Shah Rukh Khan and Jackie Shroff in Devdas. We are great fans of Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s cinema and he is a big admirer of our fashion. He gave us complete carte blanche for creating the clothes with zero interference. He shot and lit every outfit with such fabulous care and precision. Madhuri was ethereal in our clothes and wore them as if they were light as air. She was absolutely bewitching. The gold mirror ghagra was the focus of the promotional campaign even though it didn’t feature in the film.
Our work in Devdas won the National Award for Costume Design. After Devdas, we have only worked with Rhea and Sonam Kapoor for their film, Veere di Wedding, where we dressed all the four main cast members. We only work on movies that enthral us. Projects where we are given full creative control without cost-cutting budgets. Where we have a natural rapport with the producer and director, a lot of mutual respect and camaraderie. So it is a rare occurrence.
Deviating from the show, what new are you working on for your labels?
Oh it’s hectic, non-stop and all-encompassing. We are in a constant creative frenzy working on couture, diffusion and pret. We are also on an expansion spree looking to expand verticals to include footwear and fragrances at first in our offering. New stores are also on the cards. We are hungrier than ever when it comes to growth.
Lastly, it’s been five years since the pandemic hit. In what ways do you think the fashion world has changed in these five years? Personally, how has life changed in these last five years for you?
It has been extremely challenging for all. Many have not survived post the pandemic. We feel extremely blessed to be here and to be working at full capacity. To be growing and expanding. There was a lull for two years but consumers have rediscovered their love for couture, for craftsmanship, for beauty.
Personally speaking, we are focused on our work, our friends and family. We are devoted to our dream of putting India on the world map when it comes to creativity and design. India deserves to be there.
Pictures courtesy: Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla
发表回复