
Crave Asian food? Tune in to Danielle Chang and her PBS-TV show, Lucky Chow, which premieres a seventh season on May 1. For years as its Emmy-nominated creator, producer and host, Chang has spotlit fun, fascinating, felicitous Asian-centered stories about notable restaurants, off-the-beaten-path foodie finds, entertaining events, gorgeous getaways, as well as chefs, brewers, mixologists, farmers, niche purveyors and artisanal visionaries located in cities across the U.S. (Seasons one through six are available via PBS, Chang’s website and YouTube.) Her new five episodes fly farther afield, touching down in Taiwan, where Chang focuses solely on that island nation’s culinary wonders and wanderings. “Even though I was born in Taiwan,” says Chang, an American citizen who immigrated as a child to the U.S. with her family, “I had never experienced Taiwan as I did while recently filming there. Everywhere you look, you see something delicious.” A cultural dynamo, Chang has cultivated a wide-ranging career, founding LUCKYRICE, a lifestyle brand. She choreographed Asian food festivals in eight major U.S. markets. Authored Lucky Rice: Stories and Recipes from Night Markets, Feasts and Family Tables (Random House). And curated exhibitions of Chinese artists.
Savoring the Bounty of Asian Food
Among an abundance of engaging endeavors showcased this season, Chang forages the sea with indigenous ‘mermaids.’ She stirs voluminous vats of coveted black-bean soy sauce. Joins a Michelin-starred chef, who reimagines an iconic Taiwanese dish, lu rou fan: braised pork rice bowl. Interacts with men of the indigenous Rukai tribe, who hunt for wild boar in the mountains. Reveals tips of a tofu master. Feasts on vegetarian specialties at a Buddhist temple, which elicits conversation about compassion. Delights in young urbanites, who have pivoted their city careers to pursue a collective rural quest: growing exceptional rice.
Tea master David Tsay instructs Chang how to roll tea leaves.
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Applauding Asian Food Business Brainstorms
Chang scouts handfuls of biz whiz entrepreneurs and thought leaders whose novel techniques and attentive approaches generate happy buzz. A highlight? Two brothers re-envision their family’s soy sauce factory, building upon an emerging Taiwanese trend that transforms familiar pantry staples—such as soy sauce, hot sauce, tofu and rice—with palate-broadening flavors, respecting the island’s legacy. Be touched by playful design decisions that speak volumes about the dedication that goes into inventing products, such as a unique gourmet bubble tea shop and its intricate recipes. Lovely, too, are the delicate teapots, created by a former San Diego surfer to honor his adopted new Taiwan home.
Night market vendor sells skewered squid.
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Strengthening Asian Food Connections
The third episode, my favorite, is titled Nightlife. Some of Taiwan’s best-known night hubs “are not clubs or restaurants, but the night markets,” explains Chang. “They light up when the sun goes down.” The vibe? Cool and convivial. She tastes oyster omelettes and shaved ice from colorful stalls. At Keelung Port in northern Taiwan, Chang strolls a mysterious dark alley and slips into a hip, fashion-forward yet relaxingly chill hideaway bar where smiles are aplenty. Nearby, the quality of fresh seafood impresses at a bustling wet market.
At her home-based restaurant, Aeles Lrawbalrate from the indigenous Rukai tribe greets Chang.
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I talked with Chang, who lives in New York City. Here is what we dished about:
Laura Manske: “What gives you the most pleasure producing and hosting Lucky Chow?”
Danielle Chang: “Meeting passionate people. I love learning about destinations, but the best part of travel, in addition to eating, are the people.”
Manske: “What drives your search for intriguing stories?”
Chang: “The joy of discovery!”
Chang and monks express kindness through the sharing of food at the Fo Guang Shan Buddhist monastery.
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Manske: “Tell us about a scene that filled you with laughter.”
Chang: “At a 24/7 concrete fishing pool. You go anytime you want to grab a beer and a pole. Then you fish! Or catch shrimp! Your fish and shrimp are cooked right there for you. It’s such a wacky experience.”
Manske: “Many Americans do not know much about the country of Taiwan. What would you like them to know?”
Chang: “That Taiwan exists. I mean this in the nicest way, but when I first moved to New York decades ago and told people that I am from Taiwan, they’d often reply: ‘Oh, I love Thailand!’ It’s still ongoing, like a joke. Many people don’t really know where Taiwan is. For example, in the new season of White Lotus, Parker Posey’s character confuses Thailand and Taiwan! Open your eyes to the great diversity of the world.”
Manske: “Your stellar travel recommendation?”
Chang: “Taiwan has natural sulfuric hot springs. In the city of Taipei, Villa 32—a Relais & Châteaux hotel—offers traditional Taiwanese bathing and Michelin-starred French meals.”
Chang gets a whiff of stinky tofu from chef fermentation expert Sean Chen.
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Manske: “What have been your most valuable lessons, determining the lineup of stories?”
Chang: “The best stories always come through when I am personally excited about them. Stories that are heartwarming, uplifting and joyful. Stories that have a main character with personality whom viewers can get behind.”
Manske: “Your career has been diverse. You were a professor of art history with a master’s degree in cultural theory from Columbia University. You were the CEO of Vivienne Tam, an acclaimed clothing company inspired by Chinese culture and East-West fusion.”
Chang: “Looking back, it all kind of makes sense now. For Lucky Chow, I am using my experiences and skills to be a storyteller, to share my heritage and to bring that culture to a wider stage. Every time I had shifted from one job to another, I thought that I might have to start all over again. I didn’t immediately realize that it all fits together and forms the base of knowledge that I have today. It allows me to do what I do.”
Chang admires high-quality Yilan rice paddies.
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Manske: “What is the most underrated Asian food or ingredient in America?”
Chang: “The great variety of green leafy vegetables, such as chrysanthemum greens, which are commonly used in Asia. Nutritiously, they are so good for you—high in antioxidants. Bok choy, too. For salads and stir-fries. They are often not readily available in the U.S., outside of Chinese markets. When I go to New York City’s Chinatown, I love the fresh vegetable vendors.”
Manske: “What is the most overrated Asian food or ingredient in America?”
Chang: “Ramen.”
Chang makes kueh (snacks) with Pei and Ruby from Siang Kháu Lū Cultural Kitchen.
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Manske: “Which one word best describes you?”
Chang: “Curious.”
Manske: “What is your personal motto?”
Chang: “If there’s something you can do about it, do it and quit worrying. If there’s nothing you can do about it, quit worrying.”
Manske: “What is next on your horizon?”
Chang: “Working on season eight! In our world today and [the challenges of] public television, it is important to amplify Asian voices, to continue positive dialogue.”
This interview was edited for length and clarity.
For other recent articles by Laura Manske: Like Nothing You’ve Seen Before: Nat Geo’s ‘Secrets Of The Penguins’ and Travel Expert Rick Steves’ Coming-Of-Age Memoir: ‘On The Hippie Trail’.
Chang with tea farmers at Maokong on the outskirts of Taipei.
© JESPER HAYNES
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