For the AW25 season, it’s clear that the appetite for expressive make-up is well and truly alive. There will always be room for low-key glam and barely-there looks (and there were plenty of those done beautifully at Erdem in London and Prada in Milan), but the most impactful shows leaned into the creative artistry of make-up, embracing colour, surreal textures and impeccable techniques in a memorable way.
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Lips proved to be a spectacular talking point in Milan. Italian labels such as Dolce & Gabbana and Vivetta have long favoured a glamorous scarlet mouth, but for AW25, designers and make-up artists are not only dialling up the drama with maximalist finishes, but also exploring unexpected ways to make the lip a standout feature.
Antonio Marras AW25
At Antonio Marras, make-up artist Ricky Morandin delivered a deconstructed ruby harlequin lip made with what appears to be light-reflecting red foil for an almost broken, stain glass effect. Paired with soft rouge placed on the apples of the cheeks and Renaissance brows, the look feels otherworldly with a subversive edge.
DSquared
A high-octane red lip is a classic but Aaron de Mey’s interpretation at DSquared stopped traffic with its glassy finish and precise silhouette, a departure from the many stained lips we saw in seasons past. Meanwhile, Vivetta proves that the matte red lip will always be in style; just keep the rest of the face extra fresh and minimal for a mood that’s completely modern. Even better, wear yours with a pixie cut and bangs combination to lean into the hair trend of the moment.
Vivetta AW25
Midnight hues are also making a welcome return onto the runways with ethereal goth vibes at Francesco Murano. Models wore deep berry pouts with a soft balmy finish, paired with complexions that appear bathed by the moonlight for a grown-up, polished (read: non-Halloween) effect.
Francesco Murano AW25
It’s a trend that show-goers and street style stars at Milan Fashion Week have adopted. A high-octane power lip speaks volumes, as it not only lends an instant hit of colour to the complexion, it also communicates that the wearer means business while making for a great conversation starter that’s often much-needed in social situations as major as attending a runway show.
Milan street style
Milan street style
AW25’s power lip trend is a continuation of the looks seen at London Fashion Week, where make-up artist Aurore Gibrien delivered a moody, (be)witching hour lip at Roksanda on a base of clean skin. ELLE’s Generation Next winner, Pauline Dujancourt, also embraced the dark side, albeit with a gentler, more romantic touch by way of sheer finishes.
Roksanda AW25
Pauline Dujancourt AW25
The runways make a great case for just how versatile the power lip can be. Whatever shade you opt for, just make sure to prep your lips with a good lip balm and leave the rest of the complexion almost bare save for some groomed brows. Easy, but impactful.
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Medina Azaldin is the beauty editor of ELLE and Harper’s Bazaar UK, working across print and digital features. She has more than seven years journalism experience and has previously written for Red and Good Hoousekeeping. When she’s not demystifying the latest skincare ingredient, sniffing out the next big perfume trend or uncovering the science behind wellness practices, you’ll most likely find her in Hatchards Piccadilly or watching a crime series with her cats. Oh, and she’s a competitive cheerleader, too.
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