How Indian Food Went Upscale In America: An Interview With Tamarind’s Avtar Walia In Tribeca

The first Indian restaurant I ever ate at was on New York’s Lower East Side, at a dismal subterranean place where the brown-gray food all looked and tasted the same. Years later when I visited India in the 1980s I was astounded by the variety of food cultures, none of them represented in restaurants in the U.S. Their décor was much the same––low lighting, paisley fabrics, bronze sculptures and Air India posters. The food was cheap, the beer was imported, maybe you took a doggy bag home.

Since then not only have Indian restaurants in the U.S. proliferated into every shopping center and small town but the owners, who come from many different regions, began to educate the public as to their cuisines while expanding the rooms and hiring professionals to decorate them.

One of the most successful of these modern restaurateurs is Avtar Walia, owner of Tamarind in TriBeCa, who over four decades has seen and contributed to Indian cuisine becoming one of the most popular in the U .S. Tamarind seats 225 people, with a sweep of long L-shaped white marble bar, then winding to a dining room of wood walls and floor, linen-topped tables and good flatware, a cache of wine behind glass and large chandeliers that diffuse light over the tables. Dinner plates are warmed before serving. Walia is always on premises, well-tailored and a very cordial raconteur, and his demeanor has been instilled in his service staff.

It was at Tamarind, opened in 2001, that I asked him about the evolution of Indian restaurants in the U.S.

When you first came to the US what was your reaction to Indian restaurants here?

When I first came to the U.S. in 1977, the Indian restaurant scene was not great. I wasn’t in the industry at the time, but I quickly noticed that almost all the Indian restaurants were serving Mughlai food—rich curries, kebabs, and biryanis. There wasn’t much variety, and regional Indian cuisines were almost nonexistent. Fine dining options were rare; most places were just regular eateries, often adapting their flavors to suit American tastes. It was a far cry from the diverse and authentic Indian food I was used to back home.

When did the Little India section around Lexington Avenue and 34th Street begin?

The Little India section began emerging in the early 1970s. It started as a small cluster of Indian businesses catering to the growing South Asian immigrant community. By the early 1980s, the area began picking up pace, with more restaurants, grocery stores, and specialty shops opening up. It reached its peak in the late 1980s, becoming a vibrant hub for Indian food, culture, and commerce in New York City.

Was the food mostly Mughal cooking?

Yes.

What were the first high-end Indian restaurants? Nirvana? Bombay Palace?

Some of the first high-end Indian restaurants in NYC included Nirvana, Tandoor, Tabela, and later Bombay Palace. These restaurants helped introduce a more refined Indian dining experience at a time when most Indian eateries were casual. A particularly memorable establishment was Raga, operated by the Taj Group of Hotels. It stood out for its elegant decor, live music, excellent food, and top-notch service, creating a truly immersive dining experience. These early pioneers set the stage for the evolution of upscale Indian cuisine in New York.

Did you think there was a market for Dawat on East 58th street?

Yes, there was definitely a market for Dawat. At the time, most Indian restaurants were, as I’ve said, only serving Mughlai cuisine, but we introduced regional dishes from various Indian states like Kashmir, Rajasthan, Andhra Pradesh, Goa and more. This diversity set Dawat apart, offering a unique and authentic experience that appealed to a broader audience looking for something beyond the usual fare.

How is Tamarind’s food different from elsewhere?

Tamarind Tribeca sets itself apart with its refined, contemporary approach to Indian cuisine while maintaining authenticity. Unlike many Indian restaurants that focus heavily on North Indian Mughlai dishes, Tamarind showcases a broad range of regional flavors from across India, including coastal seafood dishes, South Indian flavors, and unique spice blends. The restaurant emphasizes high-quality ingredients, elegant presentation and impeccable service, making it a standout in the fine-dining Indian scene. The ambiance and attention to detail further enhance the experience, elevating Indian cuisine beyond the traditional curry-and-naan expectations.

Did Tamarind downtown catch on quickly with the Wall Street crowd?

Yes. The main reason being that Tamarind was already a well-established name, with its 22nd Street location being quite famous and having a loyal following from Wall Street regulars. At the time, there were no fine dining options in Tribeca at this scale, especially not for Indian cuisine. This made Tamarind a natural choice for professionals looking for high-quality Indian dining in the area.

What do you think of the DC restaurants like Rasika and its owner Ashok and chef Vokram Sunderam?

Ashok and Chef Vokram Sunderam are highly professional and disciplined in their work ethic, and Rasika is a true reflection of their vision and dedication. Their attention to detail, consistency, and hospitality have made Rasika one of the most celebrated Indian restaurants in Washington, D.C., setting a high standard for fine dining in the area.

Where else in the US do you find upscale Indian cuisine?

There’s Amber Indian in San Francisco and Los Altos, there’s Rasika in DC, and there’s Mughal in New Jersey.

What are the distinctly different regional cuisines of India? Are they affected by the religion of the region?

It’s a bit simplistic to categorize Indian cuisine into distinct regional compartments because food in India changes every 30 miles—flavors, ingredients, and techniques shift subtly as you move across the country. The sheer variety is immense, shaped by geography, culture, and of course, religion.

That said, we can broadly group Indian cuisine into general regions:

• North Indian Cuisine – Influenced by Mughlai traditions, featuring rich curries, kebabs, tandoori dishes, and bread-like naan and roti. Dairy plays a big role, with ghee, yogurt, and paneer commonly used.
• South Indian Cuisine – Known for rice-based dishes, fermented dosas, idlis, spicy curries, coconut, tamarind, and lentils. The use of curry leaves and mustard seeds is distinct.
• East Indian Cuisine – Bengal and Odisha focus on delicate, mustard-flavored seafood and rice, while the Northeast has fermented ingredients, bamboo shoots, and influences from Southeast Asia.
• West Indian Cuisine – Maharashtra, Gujarat, Rajasthan, and Goa offer a mix of coastal seafood, vegetarian thalis, spicy meats, and Portuguese-inspired dishes in Goa.

Religion also plays a role—Hindu communities may emphasize vegetarianism, while Muslim communities have contributed rich Mughlai and biryani traditions. Jain cuisine avoids root vegetables, and Sikh food culture is deeply tied to community meals (langar). But these are just broad strokes. In reality, every state, city, and even household has its own distinct culinary identity, making Indian food one of the most diverse and dynamic in the world.

Are authentic Indian ingredients available in the US?

Yes, authentic Indian ingredients are widely available in the U.S. through specialty Indian grocery stores, mainstream supermarkets with international sections, and online retailers. Key ingredients like spices, rice, lentils, flours, and fresh produce (such as curry leaves and tamarind) are commonly stocked, especially in areas with large South Asian populations. The growing demand for Indian cuisine has made it easier than ever to access both everyday and niche ingredients across the country.

Your wine list is amazingly deep and broad. What kinds of wines go best with spicy Indian food?

When pairing wine with spicy Indian food, the key is to choose wines that can balance the heat and complement the bold, complex flavors. Generally, wines with a touch of sweetness or acidity work well, as they can help mellow out the spice and enhance the food’s richness. Avoid very tannic red wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, as they can intensify the heat. Instead, look for wines that offer refreshing acidity or a touch of sweetness to harmonize with the bold, spiced flavors of Indian cuisine.