The tetela de birria at Xelas by El Sazon in Stillwater starts with handcrafted masa pockets that are stuffed with stewed meat and queso before getting topped with a guajillo tomato demi and greens. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune)
Ever since El Sazon Tacos & More launched at an Eagan gas station, the family-owned eatery became known for chef Cristian de Leon’s melt-in-your-mouth Mexican braised beef, or birria, with which he would stuff into tacos, add to ramen or atop pizza. When the brand grew, adding the sit-down El Sazon Cocina & Tragos in south Minneapolis, the birria came along.
So when the de Leons’ fast-growing business expanded yet again, opening Xelas by El Sazon in Stillwater late last month to showcase the Mayan food of de Leon’s native Guatemala and beyond, his famous birria just had to be on the menu. But here, it’s served a totally different way.
Xelas’ tetela de birria ($16.64) is a stunning spin on a Oaxacan dish, tetelas, which are triangles of masa usually stuffed with beans or cheese. Here, at this resort-chic spot, it’s stuffed with that comforting, slow-stewed meat and melted queso. The handcrafted masa pocket has a one-of-a-kind swirling design that could hypnotize you, if not for the dollops of guajillo tomato demi and a fresh salad on top. The tetela comes with a side of chirmol (a chunky Guatemalan salsa), and a bowl of the beef’s braising liquid, so rich and thick it could practically be mistaken for chocolate syrup.
“This dish pays homage to our roots,” said co-owner Karen de Leon. “Birria is how El Sazon started back in the gas station, now bringing those cherished flavors to Stillwater.”
Valentine’s Day sidenote: Chef de Leon is paying tribute to one of the restaurants where he got his start, Chino Latino, with a nostalgic Valentine’s weekend menu at El Sazon Cocina & Tragos (5309 Lyndale Av. S., Mpls.). Friday and Saturday are pretty much sold out, but walk-ins can be seated at the bar; there are still some reservations available for Sunday. (Sharyn Jackson)
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